Roots of the Keffiyeh
The power of this traditional scarf comes from a history of occupation and resistance and it has been carried on by Palestinians until today.
For about 70 years, the Israeli-Palestine has been one of the longest ongoing conflict in history.
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Recent conflicts escalating from the Sheikh Jarrah evictions on May 5, lead to airstrikes across the Gaza strip between Israel and Palestinian militants. Israel launched hundreds of rockets claiming to have targeted Hamas bases while Palestinian militants fired around 4,000 rockets onto Israeli cities.
Over 250 people have lost their lives thus far, mostly Palestinians. Israeli has been widely criticized by the world community.
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On May 22, both sides agreed to a "fragile" ceasefire.
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People turned to social media to raise awareness on the matter and ask for aid for Palestine under hashtags #SaveSheikhJarrah and #GazaUnderAttack. In no time protests and rallies were being organized in solidarity with the Palestinian cause from all across the world.
Many people in Brooklyn and other rallies were seen wearing the iconic black and white scarf, known as the Keffiyeh or hatta, and this has revived the power of the Keffiyeh. Protesters from across the globe wore Palestine's symbol of resistance around their neck and marched the streets chanting “free Palestine.”
Historically, the keffiyeh or hatta was worn by the farmers and Bedouins, simply to keep themselves cool in the heat and protect their face from the desert sun. It was and still is a traditional garment. The climate in Palestine is typically semi-desert Mediterranean. The summers get very hot and dry and for that reason back in the day the scarf was worn around the face, while keeping the eyes uncovered, in order to protect oneself from the blazing sun or desert winds.
Britain was granted a mandate for Palestine in 1920 and the League of Nations approved it later in 1922. The Balfour Declaration was incorporated into the mandate which included the proclamation of support for a Jewish national home. However, the mandate obligated Britain to conduct its policy in order to accommodate both the Arabs and Jews.
Throughout the years under the mandate, conflict between Arabs and Jews evolved. Palestinians were afraid of losing their land and origins due to Jewish immigration and land purchasing. This resulted in a Zionist movement and Balfour Declaration, a national home for Jewish people in Palestine. In the coming years, there was an influx of Jewish immigration into Palestine and more land purchasing, especially during the Hitler era.
Palestinian rebels wore the keffiyeh to conceal their identity during the 1936 Arab Revolt. The British Mandate authorities decided to ban the scarf, but Palestinians continued wearing it to make it harder to identify the rebels. These series of events turned the keffiyeh into a symbol of resistance in Palestine. This symbol strengthened greatly during the First Intifada in 1987, and again in the Second Intifada in 2000. Today you will find the hatta incorporated into everyday wear and it holds a deep connection between the Palestinians and their resistance.
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“Over time, the person who kind of took that scarf and made it more symbolic towards the resistance of the Palestinians was Yasser Arafat,” said Aminah Musa co-founder of Paliroots in an interview.
Yasser Arafat was Former Chairman of the Palestine Liberation Organization from 1969 to 2004. He was known to never leave his house without wearing the Keffiyeh.
The scarf was actually more than just protection from the weather. According to Musa it was an agricultural representation. Palestine heavily relied on producing olives, fish and oranges. And that can be seen on the stitching/needlework of the scarf.
The scarf was worn in pride of the rich resources that Palestine offered to the world. The distinct patterns were fishnets which represented sailors and connection to Mediterranean sea. Olive leaves, which represented “strength, resilience, and perseverance. The olive tree is nearly synonymous with the Palestinian land, spirit, and culture.” And the bold routes that represented the trade routes.
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Palestinian women show patriotism as they wear the keffiyeh around their shoulders.
Sign reads: Stop stealing Palestinian land (photo by Noura Dakka).
The Arabian hatta differs in patterns and color to the Palestinian keffiyeh (photo by Noura Dakka).
Palestinian women show patriotism as they wear the keffiyeh around their shoulders.
Long ago, Palestine had multiple factories that produced the Keffiyeh. The Herbawi factories were the only factories that manufactured the original scarf with 100% cotton using the same technique for generations. However, cheaply made scarves from China and India flooded the markets killing the original Hirbawi Keffiyeh.
“A lot of suppliers didn't understand the value of the scarf and symbolic representation of the scarf that they started purchasing the scarf from China and India because in a business retrospect the cheaper you can get the unit, the more profit you can make off of it,” Musa said.
Hirbawi had to close their factories for five years due to business decline and the issues within the country. Fortunately, today the factories are on the rise again run by the late owner’s two sons.
Although this scarf can be seen as a fashion statement, some fashion brands have appropriated the hatta and used it without any attribution or awareness to its significance.
“It’s not just a piece of fabric, it’s not just a regular print. It’s none of those,” said Musa. “It is something that means a lot to the Palestinian people.”
Urban Outfitters back in 2007 faced a lot of backlash for releasing an inauthentic keffiyeh marketed as an “anti-war woven scarf. Cecilie Copenhagen, a Danish brand with no Palestinian origins, incorporated the Keffiyeh print into their collection in 2019. Both brands faced an enormous amount of backlash but only Urban Outfitter pulled their product.
“You are not acknowledging the importance of the Palestinians that are fighting for their freedom, fighting for justice, [and] fighting for equal rights,” Musa expressed. “You are disregarding all of that just to make it into a fashion statement and that’s not ok.”
Screenshots from Cecilie Copenhagen's online store. The kuffiyeh patten is incorporated in a bikini and blouse.
Following recent events of the invasion of Sheikh Jarrah in Palestine and World Keffiyeh Day, May 11, hashtags and posts on social media are flooding. #WorldKeffiyehDay has people from all over the world wearing the scarf in solidarity with the Palestinians as well as rallies being organized to stand with the resistance. The younger generation of Palestinians are optimistic and outspoken about the matter.
Bella Hadid, of Palestinian decent herself, has raised eyebrows as she has been extremely vocal about the current Israeli-Palestinian conflicts. The supermodel had also attended a pro-Palestine protest in New York as well as posted pictures and videos of herself wearing the keffiyeh.
“It’s free Palestine til Palestine is free,” she wrote in her caption on Instagram.
Fouzia Masoud is Palestinian-American and she was raised in New Jersey. She believes Palestine will be free one day and she will get the chance to visit her hometown.
“ It means the real cultural heritage of my country,” expressed Fouzia Masoud. “I feel safe with it. And when I wear it and get compliments, as well as questions about it by strangers; it strikes a bigger cause.”
As a Jordanian Palestinian that was born in America, the scarf reminds Mohammed Abu Zaid of his occupied land that he dreams of visiting one day.